Tech Tips Cylinder Studs

Cylinder Studs

Due to the fact that a Honda CB750 top end (head and cylinder) can grow .015 or more when at operating temperature, heavy duty cylinder studs are a good idea for stock and performance motors.

Years ago, we had stock cylinder studs and various heavy duty cylinder studs analyzed by A1 technologies. Turns out, that the stock cylinder studs were better in various categories but are a bit spindly and stretch more than most engine builders prefer. With the combination of conventional head gaskets compressing up to .016 after X amount of miles and stock cylinder studs stretching, the ability to keep the head gaskets from leaking, compressing and keeping close tolerances for your go-fast motor will generally make you lean toward the higher tolerance range to be safe.

The various heavy duty cylinder studs we had analyzed simply obtained their strength simply thru bulk. With added torque and the growth of the top end under running conditions made some heavy duty studs fail or break at the upper thread area.

Stud Manufacturing Process
Premium performance studs made from US-milled, heat treated and certified 4130 Chromalloy Steel for Honda SOHC CB750's from 1969-78.
Both ends of these studs have been rolled and not die cut or single pointed. Rolled threads produce the strongest possible thread.
When a thread is hydraulically roll-formed, the material is crushed between hardened steel dies under hydraulic force which disrupt and forms a work-hardened-thread.

Additionally, the pitch diameters of both ends of the stud are controlled to produce an interference fit for the case end and a “special” fit on the nut end.
Finally the body of the stud is centerless ground to remove “notch sensitivity”/surface irregularities in which a stud is likely to fail under stress.

Our Cycle X / Kibblewhite cylinder studs are simply the best.

Stud Removal and Installation

Works sometimes.

Many places sell studs and installation tools.
So, what is the best way to remove the studs without experiencing the heartbreak of a broken stud?

Due to the fact most stud removal tools will not fit between the studs, we need a different plan.
Due to the fact that heat and penetrating lubes generally do not work, we need a different plan.
Using 2 nuts and jamming them together to remove the stud is what many people say to do.
Kinda works...not really.

This must be done.

Shocking the threads is a old salvage yard trick.
By hitting the studs several times head on, will loosen the threads and works great and will not damage the threads. This will make your removing the stud procedure easier and almost a must.

Works pretty good.

Sometimes its just the simple things that get the job done.

Putting a vice grip on the top and the bottom of the stud seems to work well.

Also, by putting vice grip on the very top of the stud and shocking the threads, the hammer will have a better chance of hitting the stud rather than a glancing blow.

This works awesome.

This idea can be duplicated for a cheap investment.

You will notice that we have machined a threaded sleeved nut, so to speak.

This sleeved nut holds our air impact in place so the "shocking the thread" technique can be done quicker and works almost every time.

Removing the old cylinder studs and breaking them can ruin your day. We need to take some photos of how we remove old cylinder studs will be coming soon.
We will also talk about the procedure do's and don'ts of installing your new Heavy duty studs. (Stay tuned)
To be continued (Case studs)

Very important, burnishing the threads after installing new connecting rod bolts, heavy duty cylinder studs and heavy duty case studs.

This technique is "super important" when new threads on connecting rod bolts and heavy duty studs are used.
The reason is, new threads on studs are unfamiliar with new nut threads or old nut threads.

For example:
After installing new cylinder studs into your engine cases and the cylinder and head is ready to be tightened down. Apply high pressure or heavy grease to the stud threads, nut threads and washers.
Tighten the head nuts in the Honda manual sequence in 5 lb increments.
Once the full torque has been reached (22 foot pounds)
Go back to #1 in the head torque sequence. Loosen, tighten to full torque. Loosen, tighten to full torque, 6 times to all the cylinder head nuts are 22 foot pounds.
Why is this important?
After the motor goes thru many heat cycles and the cylinder is expanding and contracting, the threads settle in and if this burnishing technique is not done, 3, 4, 5 pounds of torque will be lost.

This technique is a must for connecting rod bolts and studs.

Note:
Do not burnish the threads when installing the heavy-duty studs in the cases.

Wait a minute...am I dreaming this?
Is Honda so smart that they can determine specific bolt stretch at specific torque specs?
Messing around in the shop years ago, trying to upgrade hardware (studs and misc hardware) and were tightening various Honda OEM bolts to full torque.
Just for kicks, we added a couple more pounds of torque. It seemed the torque wrench needed up to 20ish degrees of turning to get a couple of pounds more and so on.
The reason we brought this up is, high-level hardware will not do this and is very consistent when tightening or torqueing.
What does this mean? Who knows, just messing around and observed this. Or was I dreaming?

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