Rather than call this a tech page, lets call this a useful "tid-bits" page.  
We do not see any reason to talk about Hondas timelines and changes they made unless its useful.
We do not see any reason to copy and paste a bunch of tech articles about theories that do not pertain to the Honda cb750 engine.


Cylinder Studs

Due to the fact that a Honda CB750 top end (head and cylinder) can grow .015 or more when at operating temperature, heavy duty cylinder studs are a good idea for stock and performance motors.

Years ago, we had stock cylinder studs and various heavy duty cylinder studs analyzed by A1 technologies. Turns out, that the stock cylinder studs were better in various categories but are a bit spindly and stretch more than most engine builders prefer. With the combination of conventional head gaskets compressing up to .016 after X amount of miles and stock cylinder studs stretching, the ability to keep the head gaskets from leaking, compressing and keeping close tolerances for your go-fast motor will generally make you lean toward the higher tolerance range to be safe.

The various heavy duty cylinder studs we had analyzed simply obtained their strength simply thru bulk. With added torque and the growth of the top end under running conditions made some heavy duty studs fail or break at the upper thread area.

Stud Manufacturing Process
Premium performance studs made from US-milled, heat treated and certified 4130 Chromalloy Steel for Honda SOHC CB750's from 1969-78.
Both ends of these studs have been rolled and not die cut or single pointed. Rolled threads produce the strongest possible thread.
When a thread is hydraulically roll-formed, the material is crushed between hardened steel dies under hydraulic force which disrupt and forms a work-hardened-thread.

Additionally, the pitch diameters of both ends of the stud are controlled to produce an interference fit for the case end and a “special” fit on the nut end.
Finally the body of the stud is centerless ground to remove “notch sensitivity”/surface irregularities in which a stud is likely to fail under stress.

Our Cycle X / Kibblewhite cylinder studs are simply the best.

Stud Removal and Installation



Photos coming soon.





Photos coming soon.





Photos coming soon.





Photos coming soon.



Removing the old cylinder studs and breaking them can ruin your day. We need to take some photos of how we remove old cylinder studs will be coming soon.
We will also talk about the procedures, do and don'ts of installing your new Heavy duty studs. (Stay tuned)  

To be continued (Case studs)


Burnishing Threads

Very important, burnishing the threads after installing new connecting rod bolts, heavy duty cylinder studs and heavy duty case studs.

This technique is "super important" when new threads on connecting rod bolts and heavy duty studs are used.
The reason is, new threads on studs are unfamiliar with new nut threads or old nut threads.

For example:
After installing new cylinder studs into your engine cases and the cylinder and head is ready to be tightened down. Apply high pressure or heavy grease to the stud threads, nut threads and washers.
Tighten the head nuts in the Honda manual sequence in 5 lb increments.
Once the full torque has been reached (22 foot pounds)
Go back to #1 in the head torque sequence. Loosen, tighten to full torque. Loosen, tighten to full torque, 6 times to all the cylinder head nuts are 22 foot pounds.
Why is this important?
After the motor goes thru many heat cycles and the cylinder is expanding and contracting, the threads settle in and if this burnishing technique is not done, 3, 4, 5 pounds of torque will be lost.

This technique is a must for connecting rod bolts and studs.

Do not burnish the threads when installing the heavy-duty studs in the cases.

Wait a minute...am I dreaming this?
Is Honda so smart that they can determine specific bolt stretch at specific torque specs?
Messing around in the shop years ago, trying to upgrade hardware (studs and misc hardware) and were tightening various Honda OEM bolts to full torque.
Just for kicks, we added a couple more pounds of torque. It seemed the torque wrench needed up to 20ish degrees of turning to get a couple of pounds more and so on.
The reason we brought this up is, high-level hardware will not do this and is very consistent when tightening or torqueing.
What does this mean? Who knows, just messing around and observed this. Or was I dreaming?




It is the sole and exclusive responsibility of the purchaser to determine the suitability of any part, product or work for his or her use.
The purchaser shall assume all legal, personal injury risk and liability and all other obligations, duties and risks therewith.
There is no warranty on High Performance products.

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Hazelhurst, WI 54531

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