By Cycle X
We thought you might like to
see some Hot Rod motors to start this Cafe section.
The motor has always been the focal point for us at Cycle X .
Because.......... You better back up your look
!!
STREETFIGHTER ENGINES PAGE ( check it out)
ENGINE PARTS PAGE ( fast motors )
USED HIGH PERFORMANCE PARTS PAGE ( check out the cool high performance parts from the 70's)
Coming soon !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Honda speedo and tach re-pops
Stay tuned
Cycle X
Triple Trees
These triple trees are designed to
replace the stock trees for a cleaner and more universal handle bar mounting
option.
They are designed to use your stock hardware and bearings.
Complete triple tree set fits 69-78 Honda cb750's.
Top tree fits 69-76.
Lightweight and cool
In Stock, In Stock, In Stock!
Complete set (raw) $268.00 |
Chrome complete set $368.00 |
Top tree ( raw ) $99.00 |
Alloy top tree and riser combo ( with
reducers ) $158.00 |
Chrome top tree $174.00 |
Risers in black, polished or chrome
$69.00
|
Honda
cb750 ignition system
Click below for details !!!!
CHECK THIS OUT NOW!!!
We have been working on and testing our
new ignition system for quite a while.
Our system has almost twice the voltage of conventional Dyna systems.
Our kit will include everything
needed to treat your Honda sohc to highest level ignition system on the
market.
Umm.....
Click Here
Power Up Kit #1
Power Up Kit #2
Power-up kits installed on stock
displacement Honda's have the potential to out-run many 836cc motors.
Kit #1 includes the mighty Cycle X power arc ignition and the proven 4-2-1
exhaust configuration.
Kit #2 includes the same as above but also includes a drop-in cam (for added
power) and valve cover gasket.
Kit # 1........ $ 688.00 plus ship
Kit #2 ..........$ 847.00 plus ship
|
|
Cycle X Tri -
Y Performance
Exhaust
System
Question:
What will I need to make a good, strong running Honda Cafe CB ?
Answer:
Well, you will need a solid motor, powerful ignition system, proper jetting and
a good exhaust system.
Question:
Where do I get a good exhaust system ?
Answer:
Nowhere, until now.
Introducing the Cycle X
4-2-1 high-performance exhaust system.
Almost all high-performance sport bikes have versions of 4 into 2 into 1 exhaust
systems.
This technology has been around for years and some Honda road racers have
experienced the benefits of this configuration.
More horsepower and torque throughout the RPM range.
Proper inside diameter pipes.
Proper exhaust pipe length.
Removable baffle ( drill the rivet )
Black coated ( road race legal)
And my favorite, Lotsa ground clearance compared to a 4 into 1 system.
69 thru 78. Remove
exhaust spigots on early models.
Cycle X new,
exclusive product in stock now!
$ 399.95
# EX-9090
Cycle X 1st (0.25)
& 2nd (0.50) Piston kits (
in stock )
Introducing our Cycle X ( 61.25
& 61.50 ) piston sets.
Super high quality ( exact OEM spec's )
Our pistons are better.
Why ?
3 piece oil rings.
Chrome top ring ( a must for today's fuels )
All Cycle X pistons are now manufactured with a anti-friction "
Tin coating ".
This coating has been used for 30 plus years on pistons with great success.
And............ they cost less money.
$
199.00 per set ( in stock )
(4) Pistons, rings, wrist pins, circlips.
Mini speedo attached to the front wheel drive unit. We think this is soooooooooo
cool!
Frequently asked questions:
Question: Can
you see the speedo while driving down the road?
Answer: Who
cares.
Question:
Is this legal?
Answer:
Who cares.
Question: Has
this ever been done before?
Answer: Maybe,
but someone will copy this. We care a lot.
This
super innovative speedo kit includes: Speedo, adaptor, and special cable.
$
89.00
# AC-099
"NEW" Cycle
X charging system
* Single phase system allows battery or battery less operation. ( call for
details )
* Rotor weighs only 1.640 lb's for high rev potential
* 14 amp system
* Kick only ( who needs a button anyway )
* Complete system weighs over 8 lbs less than a OEM system.
Note:
Honda's 3 phase field excited charging will create a magnetic pull when the regulator
tells it.
This magnetic pull can reduce horsepower ( sometimes 2 horsepower )
Reduced rotating weight and less magnetic pull makes the Cycle X charging system
the best choice.
Kit includes:
* 1.640 lb rotor
* 14 amp stator ( single phase ) and adaptor plate
* Crankshaft oil block-off sleeve ( Kick only )
* Crankshaft spacer.
* Starter hole block-off plug with fitting ( wires come out of this location)
* Solid state regulator-rectifier ( Made in USA )
* Gasket
* Instructions
$
449.99
#CRG-1234
Cycle X Cafe
Rear Sets
Cycle X Cafe
Rear Sets
Cycle X Cafe
Rear Sets
Cycle X Cafe
Rear Sets
Nice, functional, traditional rear
sets.
These rear sets bolt right on and feature cast alloy components for that period
cafe look.
Photos show drum brake version.
319.95
Tarozzi Rear Sets
Honda cb750 K1-K6
drum brake.
$399.00 #RS-002
Cycle X Clip-On Handlebars
Traditional 35mm clip-on
handlebars.
We like these because they have a 70's look.
Offered in black or chrome.
Note: We will be offering several other styles of
clip-on bars. ( stay tuned)
$ 99.00
Cycle X clip-ons ( kinda)
Here is another variation of
vintage handle bars. They are installed and held in place by the fork cap and
upper tree bolt.
Honda cb750 and Honda 500, 550's
$ 99.00
Chrome clip on's.
Here is what the vintage clip-ons
look like in chrome.
$ 99.00
Oil filter and cooler combo
Question: Want to keep that engine temp down and extend
oil durability?
Answer: Cool your oil.
This Cycle X oil filter and cooler combo is different from the rest. Why?
Check it out.
Features:
Alloy adaptor will allow you to run chrome or black high level filters.
Alloy adaptor will allow you to use a oil cooler.
Special feature:
Our alloy adaptor has a built in block off system.
By changing fittings you have the choice of using a cooler
or not using the cooler.
Kit Includes:
Alloy Oil Cooler adaptor.
Oil Filter
All Chrome Fittings Needed
O-Ring
Oil coolers mounted from this location are
optimum. The oil is cooled and goes straight to all the vital parts of
the motor.
Note:
Specify 3/8's or 1/2 Id oil line is to be used.
$ 89.00
#OL-1212
Oil cooler combo - combo
This oil cooler combo - combo kit features
the Cycle X adaptor
described in the above section.
We have made a complete oil cooler kit for your consideration.
Complete kit includes:
Alloy oil cooler adaptor. ( with "O" ring )
Oil filer
Chrome fittings
1/2 inside diameter hose. ( to get the oil flowing )
Hose clamps.
Frame clamp.
Chrome oil cooler.
$ 189.00
Cycle X
oil line adaptors
These oil line adaptors were designed to
replace the stock fittings on your motor.
They feature 1/4 NPT tapped holes for many options of oil line
configurations.
$ 46.95 ( pair )
# OL 4444
Cycle X Lowering
Kit
Lower your Honda cafe for a lower
price.
11.40" chrome shocks ( eye to clevis )
21 13/16 fork tubes ( 2 inches shorter on early 750's and 1 inch shorter
on late models )
Fork tubes fit 73-78 Honda cb750's
Fork seals ( good ones)
Dust boots ( cause yours are cracked )
$199.95
This kit will allow you to remove your drum brake system and convert to a hydraulic
disc system
with out any modifications. Simply remove your drum backing plate and shoes, then install our disc
conversion kit.
Foot controls will be offered in natural, mid, and forward positions as needed.
Why drum to disc conversion ?
Foot controls can be a pain in the dick (
not anymore ).
Drum brake activating linkages, cables, rods can feel soft and we see many
unsafe designs on customs.
Drum brake systems have an unpredictable feel unless they are in perfect
condition.
Cycle X drum to disc conversion kit
features:
*
Billet adaptor with all necessary hardware.
*Drilled rotor (
chrome bolts).
*Caliper ( Italian
made ).
* Floating caliper bracket ( no more spacing the caliper).
* Axel spacers ( nice).
* American made craftsmanship.
*Oh yeah, we like the it looks.
# WH-0009 $ 469.00
IN STOCK!
Cycle X
Dual Row Chain Conversion
Dual row chain kits were introduced in
the super cool 70's.
We have added some Cycle X flavor and are reintroducing our version of this aggressive
sprocket and chain combo.
Kit Includes:
Dual row chrome front sprocket ( 17 tooth ).
Dual row chrome rear sprocket ( 45 tooth ).
Dual row chain ( super strong and mean looking).
Almost forgot:
Cycle X shocks the custom world again
Price $ 259.00 #
CNV-011
Honda cb750 Keihin CR
Special carburetors.
We are offering these carburetors in 29mm and 31mm for you Cafe and stock Honda
framed enthusiasts.
We recommend phone calls for exact requirements.
$755.00 #
KCR-21
CYCLE X
FORK TUBES
New fork tubes by Cycle X are made with
industrial hard chrome and fit 73-78 Honda cb750's.
Cycle X fork seals meet or exceed OEM specifications
Cycle X dust boots will make your bike look nice and fresh.
- 2 Fork Tubes, Seals ( 21 13/16 inches )
$ 149.00 # FRK-022
- 1 Tubes
( 22 13/16 inches)
$ 149.00
# frk-001
Standard Tubes, Seals ( 23 13/16 inches )
$ 149.00 # FRK-000
+ 4 Fork Tubes, Seals ( 27 13/16 inches )
$ 149.00
# FRK-004
+
6 Fork Tubes, Seals ( 29 13/16 inches )
$ 159.00 #FRK-006
+ 8 Fork Tubes, Seals ( 31 13/16 inches ) $
159.00 # FRK-008
+ 10 Fork Tubes, Seals s ( 33 13/16 inches ) $
159.00 # FRK-010
+ 12 Fork Tubes,
Seals ( 35 13/16 inches ) $
159.00
# FRK-012
Note: Over
size fork tubes will need spacers on top of springs to compensate extended
lengths.
| -2 TUBE
SET $ 149.00 OUT OF STOCK! |
-1 TUBE
SET $ 149.00 OUT OF STOCK |
STANDARD TUBE
SET $ 149.00 |
+4 TUBE SET $
149.00 |
| +6 TUBE SET $
159.00 |
+8 TUBE SET $
159.00 |
+10 TUBE SET $
159.00 OUT OF STOCK! |
+12 TUBE SET $
159.00 OUT OF STOCK |
l
Alternator
block off plate with exposed charging system
Sample
of the Cycle X exposed charging system.
We
like this system for a few reasons.
The Cycle X charging system is great.
The throttle response is instant with the 1.640 lb rotor.
16 amp versus OEM 13 amp output.
The system is thinner than the OEM system ( for you road racer people)
And my favorite:
The exposed alternator looks cool.
Complete kit includes:
Block off plate and oil seal.
16 amp rotor and stator.
Voltage regulator.
Oil block off sleeve.
Starter hole plug.
Allen bolts.
Gasket.
$ 449.99
Cycle X
Shocks The World Again!
( We Like Saying That.)
OFF-SET Sprockets for Honda CB750's: ( in
stock )
Cycle X has
developed an off-set sprocket to help with wide tire applications.
16, 17 or 18 tooth. Your choice!
3/8's off-set.
530 chains.
Heat treated.
.090 wider spline for more out-put shaft support.
69-78 Honda CB's.
Chain clearance has always been an issue Honda custom's. Many people have
shifted motors to the left, shifted wheels to the right, welded spacers and
sprockets together to achieve chain clearance.
We have helped the custom world with the first production off-set sprocket for
Honda 750's.
Sale
Price
# FP-220
Chrome Off-Set Front Sprockets:
Here's what we do:
We like to expose everything, especially workmanship like our
off-set sprockets.
We like to paint motors black and install this chrome sprocket.
Sale Price
$108
#FP-221
Cycle X
Gator boots ( fork boots ):
Our gator boots are different because they do not mount to your head light ears
like OEM.
Our boots mount to your lower sliders and your fork tube.|
This will eliminate the need for OEM head light ears for a super clean and 60's,
70's look.
$ 19.95
LESTER MAGS
18 INCH REAR
19 INCH FRONT
Removed from a Honda cb750 cafe ( drum
brake rear wheel )
$ 899.00 for the pair
Cafe numbers from
the 70's
Purchased in a shop
buy-out.
These numbers have a 70's cool look, because they are from the 70's.
$ 1.00 each
Alloy rear
sprockets
Straight out of the 70's drag racing days.
54 tooth for serious acceleration.
One sprocket is for a 530 chain.
One sprocket is for a lighter 520 chain.
$ 59.00 each
Gauge covers
Honda cb750 chrome gauge covers for your
OEM tach & speedo.
$ 39.00
MINI OIL PRESSURE GAUGE:
We like anything that's new and different. Here is a mini, mini oil pressure
gauge and adaptor kit that will get people looking.
Kit includes:
100lb Mini, Mini Oil pressure gauge. 1 inch. ( white face )
Alloy adaptor
Chrome elbow fitting.
$ 74.95
# OL-999
OIL PRESSURE GAUGE:
New oil pressure gauge for Honda 750 SOHC 69-78. Monitor your oil
pressure
or just put it on cause it's COOL!!!!
Kit includes:
100lb Oil pressure gauge ( Black or white)
Alloy adaptor
Chrome elbow fitting.
$ 74.95
# OL-814
Price buster
$$$
Shortly shock
11.40 inch shorty shocks (
eye to clevis )
Our shorty shocks are better......... Why ??????............ because they are
less money !!!!!!!!!
$ 69.00 per set
ffnPrice buster
$$$
17 tooth
New, 17 tooth ( 530 chain)
Purchased in a shop buy-out ( good stuff)
$ 10.00 each
bvPrice
buster $$$
18 tooth
Same as above but 18 teeth.
$ 10.00
Alloy
finned points cover 750
New, polished alloy cover from the 70's
era.
$49.00
Alloy
finned dyno cover 750
New, polished dyno cover from the 70's era
$39.00
Chrome
finned dyno cover 750
New, Chrome dyno cover from the 70's era.
$49.00
Alloy
finned points cover 500, 550
New, alloy points covers from the 70's era
$49.00
Chrome
finned dyno cover 500,550
Left over from the olden days ( new)
$39.00
Honda
cb350 dyno cover
Beck Arnley covers are some of our
favorites from the cool 70's.
Lets not forget about the cb350 people.
Here we have a super rare Beck Arnley dyno cover for your consideration ( new)
$99.00
Honda
cb750 dyno cover
Another example of Beck Arnley stuff.
Honda cb750 Dyno cover ( new)
$ 75.00
Honda
cb350 points cover
Nice hey.
Honda cb350 points cover ( new ) from the 70's
$49.00
Honda
cb350 finned covers
Here is a set of finned covers from many
moons ago.
Made in Canada, new
$65.00
Brake rod nut (
from the 70's )
We like this brake rod nut because it
looks cool and its authentic 70's.
16.95 ( chrome )
Tach
plug (from the 70's )
Once again, pure 70's product ( chrome
)
$19.95
Bike Builder
Big Bag
o Brackets
These brackets might help you
someday.
We are constantly using these brackets for one thing or another around our shop.
The brackets on the right are 1/4 thick and can be used for heavy duty
applications.
$ 9.95 per bag
Bar backs from
the old days
Purchased these during a shop buy-out
New
Bar back or bar forward.
$ 39.00
Bar backs from
the old days
Another version of bar backs.
Notice the slight angle these bar backs give you.
New
Bar back or bar forward ( I guess)
$ 39.00
Supersport engine guards
Purchased in a shop buy-out.
Some of you Cafe folks might need these engine guards someday.
New
Tag says:
Super Sport only. ( cb750 F )
$59.95
Supersport rear guard
Can't remember ever seeing one of these
before. ( Kinda like um )
Rear safety guard for Honda cb750 supersport.
Looks like they mount to the upper shock and passenger peg bracket.
Purchased in a shop buy-out.
Put your oil cooler back there. ( or not )
$ 59.95
Honda cb500-550 guards
Purchased in a shop buy-out.
New
Tag says:
1971-77 cb500-550 engine guards
$ 59.95
Need More
Cool Products ????
Check out the Honda 750 chrome valve
covers. Brand New!
$ 39.00 # EN-1111
Honda cb750 front brake pads ( 70-76) ( excellent quality)
Fits 1970-1976 K1 - K6
$ 19.00
# PAD800
Honda cb750 front brake pads :
Fits 1976-1978 Automatic ( A )
1975-1976 Super Sport ( F )
1977-1978 K Models
$ 19.00
# PAD801
Honda cb750 rear brake shoes.
Fits : CB 650 79-82
CB 650 87
CB 650 C CUSTOM 80-81
CB 650 S CUSTOM 82
CB 650 SC NIGHTHAWK 82
CB750 K1-K7 70-77
CB750A AUTOMATIC 76-78
CB750 K 76-78
CB750 CUSTOM 82
CB750 C CUSTOM 750 80-82
CB750 K 750 FOUR K 79-82
CB750 KZ 79
CB750 L 79
CB750 SC NIGHTHAWK 82-83
$ 29.00
# PAD802
Plug & Pump
Welcome to the 70's
Here is a gift for your cheap ass friend with his bald ass tires.
Plug & pump.
Remove your spark plug.
Screw in the Plug & pump adaptor into your spark plug hole.
Connect the hose to your tire, and pump it up ( awesome )
Has adaptors for all spark plug sizes.
New in original package.
$ 39.95
Honda 500 550 head pipes
From the 70's ( new )
Chrome head pipes made by MCM many moons ago
$ 139.00
Alloy
front and rear rims
Sample
rims
2.15 by 19 inch front
3.50 by 18 inch rear
Great price. great quality ( stay tuned )
Lock Up Clutch Assembly
Lock
up clutch
Two things:
Some high horsepower Hondas have a tendency to have clutch slippage in high
gear.
Most people will install heavy duty springs to overcome this problem, but
creating a stiff feel at the lever.
Heavy springs can make your clutch lose its nice, easy operation when leaving
the stop and go light.
Our lock up clutch will increase pressure with RPM
Initial off the line or stop and go light grab can be softened up with light
springs to prevent wheel spin or annoying hard lever pull. .
Lock up clutch kit includes :
Billet spacer plate.
Lock-up pressure plate.
(2) Gaskets.
(2) Dowell pins.
Extended clutch adjustor.
Oh yea, looks cool.
Note:
Kick starter shaft will need to be extended if you want to use kick only ( give
a call )
Kit comes with kick shaft plug for you electric start or drag race people.
NOW IN STOCK!
$ 449.00
Poor mans jetting kit
This extra gas circuit procedure
has been done for years.
Carburetor jetting is an on going topic of discussion.
So, here is what we do from time to time.
Tap into the float bowl and insert pilot jets into the throat of the carburetor.
This procedure will give your bike a boost from approx 1/4 to full
throttle.
Also, it will allow you to check your float level at a glance and purge unwanted
sediment from your bowl.
Kit includes
Drills.
Taps.
Jets. ( 2 sizes )
Fuel fittings.
Fuel line.
Part #
Boosty 101
$ 59.95
Or, do it yourself if your so smart !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Modify Your Spark Plugs
For Free Horsepower.
There are many gizmo's that have claimed
power increases through out the years ( splitfire spark plugs, indexing spark
plugs, etc ).
Here is a modification that works:
Bend up the negative electrode on your spark plug and cut approx 3/16 off. File
the sharp edges edges and bend the negative electrode back to your desired spark
plug gap.
Essentially turning your spark plug into a side firing plug.
Gasoline does not explode in the combustion chamber, it burns.
Nitro is the only fuel that explodes.
With this in mind we must remove any obstructions slowing down the burn ( the
negative electrode )
Attention to detail will make you a winner or run better than others.
Want more tips?
Adjustable cam chain ( kinda)
Some racers spend a lot of time at high
RPM's.
Many aftermarket people sell manual cam chain adjustors. ( for
other brands )
Here is what the old timers did !!!!
You will notice the cam chain tensioner on the right has been tapped and a bolt
has been installed to keep things in order or moving.
WE are not saying you will need to do this modification, but it makes sense.
Modified
advance unit
Some racers would weld the
advance unit in the full advance position for instant throttle response.
Just some tid-bits from the old days.
Rat bike ( test bike )
We have several bikes for testing purposes.
This is one beat up nasty Honda cb750 ( stock motor ).
This bike has 34,000 miles and has led a hard life ( especially around our shop
)
This bike has always been able to fight off the most determined challengers.
So, why does this bike run so good ?
Motor is bone stock with 34,000 miles
Tri - Y 4-2-1 exhaust ( open )
Modified spark plugs
Carb's are stock ( 1974 )
Jetting :
Stock pilots
.007 removed from the underside of the slides
Needles 1 click from full rich
140 mains
Open velocity stacks
Cycle X power arc
ignition with aggressive advance curve.
The addition of our ignition was the final step needed to turn this bike into a
real sleeper.
This thing hauls ass.
Why do some bikes run better than others
with the same components
Why does my buddy’s bike have this jetting and mine doesn’t like that jetting?
For conversation sake, lets assume (Never assume.) that both bikes are in the same condition, same electrics, tuned up, altitude, etc…. (Mileage unknown.)
Why do some bikes require different jetting?
Story:
We had a customer’s motorcycle that began to run rich. All the normal tune-up stuff was ok. He is the original owner and no changes were made. (Exhaust, fancy air filters, etc.)
Question: So
why does the bike run richer? Failing ignition? Dirty
air filter? Float malfunctioning? Bad
fuel?
Answer: Worn carburetor needle jet and needle.
Just like pistons, carburetors are working hard. Slides are moving up & down, being pulled & pushed with intake pulses constantly wearing the inside of the needle jet.
The needle jets and needles are very precise and wear is immeasurable. The detection of this problem is sometimes difficult. (Unless you spend a $100.00 per hour on a Dyno.)
When you drive
a bike at normal speeds, you are generally in the pilot circuit, slide cutaway,
needle jet and in the needle a bit. These circuits work together
delivering fuel to your motor. A little wear in the needle jet and needles is
why some bikes with open exhaust, open air filters SOMETIMES run better with
almost stock jetting. We wrote a tech article on exhaust systems and tuning and
basically said: Select an exhaust system you like and jet accordingly with an
open mind. Same with this needle jet, needle topic: Do not go into jetting a
bike with a preconceived idea about jetting. Keep an open mind.
We do not know if needle jets & needles are still available or if you really need them.
This was just a story and maybe this will help someday.
SLIDE INTO PERFORMANCE
A lot of literature and chat room posts are helpful in diagnosing ill running motorcycles.
We wrote a tech article on ageing and worn needles and needle jets recently and talked about how aging components can mess up the diagnostic process. We prefer to write about running issues that are not in print or rarely talked about. Generally, these things have baffled us in our service department and are experienced real life fixes.
When it comes to carburetors and jetting, the diagnostic problem must be cut in half.
Is it rich or lean? At ¼,½, ¾, full throttle is it rich or lean? Many publications and discussions can help with this.
Here is a real life story and an experience that has worked for us from time to time.
When cruising down the road your bike is normally running about 2 ½ to 3 ½ thousand rpms. Most of the jetting conversations talk about pilots and needle positions. We feel that is a wide range. Why? There is a sweet spot that is overlooked when transitioning from pilots to needle position. ”The slide cutaway.” Sometimes with pod filters, drag pipes and other custom products you must have a determination to get the job done. Rather than, “I’ll live with its attitude.”
First, pilots, cutaways, needle jets, needles and main jets work together. They cross over, overlap, and need to be delivering fuel and air as needed.
Oh yea!
The cutaway!
The sweet spot!
Here is what we do in many high performance or aggressive situations. We will disassemble the carb bank and remove the carburetor slides. Then we will remove 7 thousands at a time from the bottom of the slide (On a lathe.) this will richen up the sweet spot (Between the pilot and needle position.), which is normally overlooked. Of coarse the carbs will need to be synchronized again for absolute determination of progress. Sometimes after doing this modification, we have gone back to stock pilot jetting. Here is the problem. This tip takes a lot of work and hours, but no money.
Sounds simple?
Some of these tips have cost us many hours in our service department and we would like to support people having annoying carburetor issues. Hope this helps someday.
** Note: Dynos are used with a 25% braking load to simulate heavier bikes that might ride with a passenger now and then. So, if you weigh 130lbs and you tune your bike perfectly then pick up a chick that weighs 250lbs your bike will need more fuel. So, if your bike runs great in neutral. But runs like shit on the road, give it more fuel.
Ken;
You told me that when you were done with my carbs that they would get me going, but wouldn’t run as good as the space shuttle. You were wrong!
I bolted them on and added gas. Fired on 1st kick and idles nice and smooth with no loss of power throughout throttle range. No popping and no smoke. Plugs look a little sooty, but I’m not going to touch anything. This bike has way more power than it should. Riding it on the freeway is a humbling experience.
Thanks for a great job!
Mike
NGK VS. CHAMPIONS
We talk a lot about Dynos and fuel to air ratios. The proper fuel to air ratio will mean you have reached your motors potential horsepower. Dynos are a luxury and not available to everyone so we try to explain what we have discovered on the Dyno for you. I was driving to work this morning and remembered something we did before Dynos were available to us.
Reading spark plugs is common knowledge in many publications. They will show you pictures of spark plugs and expect you to duplicate the color as shown. (Thats cool.) Ever notice your plugs never really look the same as the pictures? Here is what we did years ago!!!!! During the tuning process, NGK spark plugs never seemed to show the coco brown color we were after. We would switch to Champion spark plugs for the tuning process. (Oh no, Champions?) Yes, Champion spark plugs show color better and are easier to read. Then of course we switch back to NGKs
Note:
Once again, there are many variables in tuning the internal combustion motor.
Even Dynos are not exact at times. This is just a little tip we did years ago
and hope this helps you someday!!!!!
BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING:
Before a person can begin to fine-tune the internal combustion engine, many people have issues with their 30 plus year old project bikes. We can talk about a lot of fun topics like exhaust systems, carburetion, ignition systems, etc…. but troubleshooting is sometimes annoying without a systematic approach. We at Cycle X have a system we follow every time an ill running bike is in our shop.
THE POWER TRIANGLE:
The power triangle is nothing new but needs to be remembered when the going gets
tough diagnosing poor running bikes.
Motor must be in good, sound condition. (Duh.)
Ignition must be in good, sound condition. (Duh.)
Carburetion must be in good, sound condition. (Duh.)
MOTOR:
Valve adjustment should be checked or adjusted. Reminds me of a story. We had a
drag bike with big, overlapped cams and it had 16-to1 compression. Because of
the cam profile we had a little over 120lb’s compression. But the compression
increased with the RPM of the motor. (It’s a cam thing.) We could alter the
compression readings by setting the valves looser. (Cutting back on duration.)
The looser we set the valves, the faster the bike went. And the compression
changed also. So, if you want an accurate compression reading. Make sure to set
your valves.
CHECKING COMPRESSION:
Open up throttle. Turn motor over 4 times and record readings. Do not be
concerned with the readings being high or low. Be concerned that the readings
are within plus or minus 5 percent of the average. Remember the cam profile
story. NOTE: Over-head cammed motors compression readings can be affected by cam
chain stretch also. NOTE: An abundance of oil in a cylinder will raise
compression. (If you’re motor was upside down or on its side.)
IGNITION SYSTEM:
We like modern high-powered ignition systems for obvious reasons but if you have points and stock coils here are some tidbits of info. Stock coils produce approx. 10,000 volts. Internal combustion engines need 14,000 to 18,000 volts to complete the burn properly. Points start to go out of adjustment after about 200 miles. Points have also been the primary cause of detonation in higher performance motors which connecting rod breakage has been seen.
DO’S AND DON’TS:
Solder all connections. 1/10 of a volt can be lost with each connection without
soldering.
Check spark plug caps. 5K ohms is good.
Clean and set points to .015-point gap.
Lube advance unit cam lobe. If you don’t, your ignition timing will retard.
Check charging system. Low battery = Low spark.
Use a timing light. We time to the full advance marks. Timing lights can be used
to detect misfires in your ignition system. If you suspect a problem… Hook up
a timing light to your bike. Start the bike and flash the timing light on your
leg or arm. You will see and here the misfire.
Never splice spark plug wires to get more length.
Modern ignition systems have big spark, consistent timing and zero maintenance.
Now that you have addressed your motor and ignition system the carburetion system will hopefully be a breeze.
CARBURETION:
Check needle/seat and float adjustment. The amount of fuel in the float bowl
will have an affect diagnosing rich or lean conditions.
Check for intake manifold leaks. Spray carb cleaner around the intake rubbers to
detect fluctuations in the motors RPMs. (We see this problem a lot.)
When jetting carburetors start from the bottom (Idle.) and work your way
up.(Main jet.) Check your jetting at ¼, ½, ¾ and full throttle. This jetting
thing is part common sense and experience. Mikuni has a very detailed book on
jetting carburetors if you run into trouble.
The 70’s (Exhaust and Tuning).
For those of you that are to young or cannot remember, here is my opinion.
Bike building in the 70's was very simplified; there were over a dozen
catalogs to buy custom Honda parts, ranging from gas tanks, frames, wheels,
front ends, exhaust systems, etc. We look at bikes from that 70’s era and
can identify most every part as an aftermarket purchase. Now-a-days Hondas are
much harder to build; every part must be hunted down or made from scratch. So
the people who are building Hondas now-a days deserve a lot of credit.
Exhaust systems from the 70’s.
Many systems claimed horsepower increases, but many achieved minor gains by the
fact less restrictive exhaust will show gains. Many systems used automobile
collectors welded to there 4 into 1 system to save money. Primary exhaust tube
diameter was a major issue with many systems, almost duplicating the factory
diameter.
In my opinion, any 4 into 1 system is better than drag pipes and most other cool looking systems. Exhaust systems open up a world of theory, debate and experiences in tuning the internal combustion engine. The 4 into 1 system have been published as being tuned with velocity, shock waves or sound beats and the perfect amount of something engineered into them. When a cylinder fires and pushes exhaust down the pipe into a collector, the exiting gases are pulling exhaust gas from the other cylinders. So the 4 into 1 systems work well on muti-cylinder machines. Smaller primary pipes have been known for midrange punch. Shock waves or sound beats have been advertised as being the latest scientific breakthrough. We need to reflect back to our 2 stroke racing days to speak about sound beats. High performance 2 strokes live or die with shock waves. Some pipes are high RPM and some have torque characteristics. I remember cutting and shortening a brand new exhaust system to find higher RPMs for racing purposes. Finding the window of available horsepower getting smaller and smaller. So at what RPM did the exhaust system sold make horsepower?
We custom builders are in a
unique situation. We want looks and we want horsepower with ground clearance. We
do not have the luxury of shopping for a multitude of different pipes like the
70’s. Here’s my point… We built a bike we call the superbobber and the
motor is highly modified (Compression, long duration cam, etc…) and the pipes
are extremely long which we did for looks and shock value. We had never tuned or
even seen a bike with pipes this long. With the combination of performance parts
in this superbobber the normal train of thought would be to give this high
performance bike a more generous amount of fuel. So the tuning process begins.
Jetting, checking timing, adjusting valves, etc. The jetting process took longer
than we anticipated because of a forgotten fundamental mindset needed to tune
altered or modified motors. The mindset is if you go into a tuning process with
a preconceived idea how a motor should be jetted, you will be wasting a lot of
time. Example: Long duration cams help to pull in fuel, and the 4 into 1 exhaust
is helping to pull exhaust out. Pressured intake systems help with an incoming
charge of fuel. This would mean the bike needs a lot of fuel Right?
The superbobber is now tuned and the jetting is same as a stock motor. Most
people find the final jetting on the superbobber unusual.
Back to exhaust systems. Due to the fact we have very few exhaust systems to select from. The only logical thing to do is select an exhaust you like and tune your bike as needed with a open mind. Honda 750s have a great potential to make power with the right combination of aftermarket parts. And have potential to run far better than the factory offered back then. There are a lot of theories about the internal combustion engine. But remember: Webster’s dictionary says: THEORY is a speculative plan, a conjecture, and a guess.
Thought maybe you would like to hear the superbobber story and maybe the preconceived jetting mindset might help you someday. Maybe you have an experience you would like to share?
Gasket Installation:
Here is what we notice...
When we are reconditioning Honda motors we notice very few cylinders, heads, covers, etc... are true or flat. Actually, The top side of the head ( cam side) is more inconsistent than the bottom. Valve covers can be inconsistent also. Chroming the valve cover can leave a untrue surface, because the chroming process can at times, leave a dripping texture on the gasket surface.
Previous gasket replacements can and have left scraping marks, which can cause problems. We are also not fond of the factory cylinder studs and re-torquing head gaskets can be time consuming. ( Heavy Duty studs are torqued to 20-22 foot pounds vs the factory 13.7 – 15.2 pounds with stock studs.) And they resist stretching under running conditions. You MUST follow recommended factory tightening sequences.
Because of the above mentioned conditions, certain precautions and preparations are followed.
NOTE: Some automobile manufacturers do not even use gaskets because of close tolerances. ( They use fancy sealers or nothing.)
Here is what do:
When we install gaskets on HD's, Triumphs, Honda's, Kawasaki's the gasket surfaces must be true and not abused. Threebond #1104, Yamaha bond or Honda bond is applied to the gasket surface. This sealer is used for three reasons.
First: To help the gasket overcome any flaws or chrome on the surface.
Second: (Equally as important.) To manipulate and hold the gasket perfectly in place.
Third: Threebond will not fall off ( Like silicone) and cause blockage in critical areas.
Most engine builders use aerosol copper coat on head gaskets. ( 4-5 thin coats.)
It sounds funny (To some people) that copper coat is used on conventional gaskets rather than copper gaskets. ( It works great) And once again you MUST follow recommended factory tightening sequences.
The head gaskets are checked to make sure the dowel pins and head gasket holes are perfect before copper coat is applied. Dowel pins and head gaskets are checked because they are accurately positioned and manipulating the head gasket is not an option. Minor attention to head gasket dowel pin holes is common from time to time.
Example:
We had received a chrome valve cover (Yesterday) from a customer to install on his motor. Because we are aware of age, warping, chrome dripping and scrape marks, we checked the gasket surface.
This cover was so bad, even NASA space shuttle gaskets and sealer would not have helped.
Finally:
After the motor has been started and ran a few times, we will recheck torque spec's on all the covers. Most of the time they need to be re-torqued.
Most people re-torque head gaskets after a thousand miles or so. Especially if stock cylinder studs are used.
These procedures are what we do, and should be considered when installing any brand of gaskets.
CycleX
e-mail............. cyclex@cyclexchange.net
Web-site..........www.cyclexchange.net
Phone..............715 356 7346
Mailing........... PO box 275
Minocqua, Wisc. 54548
Location.........6246 HY 51 south.
Hazelhurst, Wisc. 54531
Preston Petty number plate
