Carb System Tuners Page
We Now
Accept Visa, MasterCard, Discover, and American Express!
Phone In Your Order At # 715-356-7346
UNDER CONSTRUCTION
This will be a online tuners tech support
page!!!!!!!!!!!!
We will have
photo's with plain English descriptions of how to tune your system.
dyno time!
Our test bike is a rat bike and
is used for test purposes. Dyno's are hard on motors and tires. Always the the possibility
of catastrophes.
Dyno's and exhaust gas analyzers are
expensive tools but tools are needed to diagnose and perfectly tune the internal
combustion engine.
Because we are the manufactures of the
twin carburetor system for SOHC Honda's we are always looking to improve our
products.
We selected MAC drag pipes for several reasons:
Many people use drag pipes.
Suspicious about the horse power they develop.
We could probe each cylinder individually with the gas analyzer.
Here is what we found:
Drag pipes are inconsistent and you can expect a decrease in horsepower over 4
into 1 exhaust systems. ( read exhaust tech article for details )
Commonly, middle cylinders run somewhat hotter on air cooled motors. Of course,
richer mixtures help.
We designed the intake manifolds and are aware that the middle cylinders get a
little more fuel when using straight intake rubbers.
Buy moving the carburetors inward or out, the fuel can be directed as
needed.
Direct the carburetor straight
at the spilt off point for 1&2 cylinders (Then 3&4 of course)
The
exhaust gas analyzer shows the carburetors will deliver fuel &
air equally to all four cylinders.
To get the carburetors pointing towards the manifold split, grind or cut the
intake rubbers on a angle ( 7 degrees is a good start )
Or simply look down the throat of the carb.
We have found some super high quality angle boots if you are uncomfortable
modifying your existing rubbers.
If you mess up your rubbers or need new ones contact your local NAPA store.
Head to manifold reinforced rubbers are NAPA part # 607 (1 3/8)
Carb to manifold reinforced rubbers are NAPA part # 610 (1 5/8)
High quality angle boots are $ 26.00 each ( expensive, I know)
Mount manifolds to the head, making sure they are
equal heights.
Install carburetors and direct the carb opening straight at the split off point
inside the manifold.
After you are satisfied with the mounting location. We like to make a support
bracket for the carb's.
Note: Bad road conditions can sometimes cause carb's to bounce.
Synchronizing carburetors is a must!!!!!!!!!!
Mikuni says you can use .020 to .030 wire ( feeler gauge ) under the carb slides
to get them equal for idle.
We like this carb synchronizing tool ( above ). Simply put this tool over the
carb, when the red ball is at the same height your done. ( nice and
quick)
Carb synch tool #CA-007 $39.95
Next, adjust cable synch with the cable adjustors, so that slides lift off idle
at exactly the same moment.
Use a finger on one slide and watch the other.
PHOTO 1 : Low speed air mixture screw. Turn in for more
fuel ( clockwise ).
PHOTO 2 : Idle screw.
PHOTO 3 : Choke lever. Push down to choke , lift up for off
choke.
PHOTOS 4 & 5 : This is a choke cable and will allow you to half
choke or full choke your carbs.
Sometimes people leave the choke lever on to long and foul plugs. By adjusting
the cable accordingly,
you can run your bike until warm without fouling plugs.
$ 33.00 For choke cable and
adjusters
# CA-765
Note:
For you people that like aggressive throttle
response use 2.0 throttle slides and 20 or 25 pilot jets.
TO BE CONTINUED................